Hanbok

The history of Hanbok

The history of Hanbok started from three different colonies (Kogueruh, Baekjae, and Shinla) in ancient Korea. The trace of Hanbok was first founded on the walls of kingdom's graves. It was brought into Korea when one of the princes married a princess of a colony in China. Some of the basic elements of today’s hanbok, namely the shirt - jeogori and pants - baji, were probably worn at a very early date, but it was not until the Three Kingdoms Period (57 BC - AD 668) that the two-piece costume of today began to evolve. Short, tight trousers and tight, waist-length jackets were worn by both men and women during the early part of the period, as evidenced by ancient tomb paintings of Goguryeo tombs. This basic structure remains relatively unchanged to this day. Back in Kogueruh period, clothes were influenced by China and Buddhism. (The picture is Lee Young Ae in the popular drama Dae Jang Geum)

Qipao in popular culture

This is a picture from Wong Kar Wai's movie In the Mood for Love. Maggie Cheong's gorgeous qipaos created a come-back of this traditional Chinese dress.

This is NancyKwan wearing a qipao on the cover of Life magazine in the 60s. In Western popular culture, the qipao became synonymous with the 1960 movie character Suzie Wong and the sexual objectification of women.

This is the poster for the movie Spiderman I. The caucasian American woman wears a qipao in the movie, which sometimes people argue that this represents the idea of orientalism.

The popular Chinese Street Fighter video game character Chun-Li is very well known for her signature blue cheongsam (first seen in Street Fighter II: The World Warrior), worn with white knee-high boots, hair bun covers, and oversized spiked bracelets for a non-traditional style.

The model isn't wearing a qipao, she's wearing a bodypaint which looks so real!

Functions and representation of qipao

Displays the elegance of female body

• Qipao, the classic dress for Chinese women, combines the elaborate elegance of Chinese tradition with unique elements of style. It creates the impression of simple and quiet charm, elegance and neatness. It can display Chinese women's modesty, softness and beauty. Like Chinese women's temperament, Qipaos are elegant and gentle. The beauty of qipao makes it gain its popularity. The high-necked, closed-collar qipao, with a loose chest, fitting waist, and the attractive slits, is one of the most versatile costumes in the world. The modernized version is especially noted for accentuating the figures of women, and as such is highly popular as a dress for high society. As Western fashions changed, the basic cheongsam design changed too, introducing high-necked sleeveless dresses, bell-like sleeves, and the black lace frothing at the hem of a ball gown. By the 1940s, cheongsam came in transparent black, beaded bodices, matching capes, and even velvet.

It embodies a revolutionary act and a quest for beauty

• Qipao is different from the traditional dress which is loose and baggy. The change in the style and tailoring of qipao reflects a change in the mind of the people. Under the influence of western dress style, qipao undergoes a radical change in terms of its length, cutting and style. The Qipao became standard female attire until the 1960s. Following Western fashion, the tailors raised the hem, even to above the knee, so that the "long" was long no longer. In the West, during the sexual revolution of the 1960s the style was deemed something oppressive, like the Victorian bodice. It was a revolution in the Chinese society when women began to show their arms and legs when they wore Qipaos. In the past, they were even forbidden to expose their feet. Old-fashioned people were furious about the change. However, it didn’t stop women from pursuing fashion. Movie stars and upper-class ladies helped it reach extreme popularity. It became the Chinese women’s daily dress for decades. Women of all ages used to wear it for all occasions.

A representation of national identity and the gendered representation of the nation

• Qipao represents the national identity and signifies the idea of gendered representation of the nation. People in the West particularly identify qipao as the national dress of Chinese. They are fascinated by it. In the current force of globalization, we have seen the increasing presence of ethnic dress going across borders, whether through the flow of people or media, especially in the direction from non-Western countries to Western countries. Cheongsam, the Chinese national dress, has revived since the 1990s on both in China and in Western societies. This trend is evidenced in American popular media. In two Hollywood movies, Spider Man I (2002) and 50 First Dates (2004), Caucasian American women wear qipao in the movies. Unlike American movies engaging in Chinese issues or Chinese produced nostalgic and martial arts/gangster movies in which cheongsam naturally appears, the stories of these two movies have nothing to do with Chinese. Some people may argue that this actually helps to reinforce the idea of orientalism---how the East is seen and represented in the eyes of the West.

You can see that this one is much shorter in length, which differs from the traditional one. The length of the old style qipao usually reaches the ankle.

You can see the change in the material used in making a qipao. This is not made of silk. This one is a two piece dress, with a petticoat inside, which is different from the traditional one.

Changes in qipao

Cutting and tailoring

• The first and "traditional" qipao when introduced to the larger Han population were wide, baggy and rather loose. It covered most of the women's body revealing only to head, hands, and the tips of the toe. The loose baggy nature of the clothing also served to demphasize and conceal the figure of the wearer regardless of age. However, with time the qipao were tailored to become more form fitting and revealing. The modern version of the qipao was first developed in Shanghai around 1900. Slender and form fitting with a high cut, it contrasted sharply with the traditional qipao. The modernized version is especially noted for accentuating the figures of women, and as such is highly popular as a dress for high society. As Western fashions changed, the basic cheongsam design changed too, introducing high-necked sleeveless dresses, bell-like sleeves, and the black lace frothing at the hem of a ball gown. By the 1940s, cheongsam came in transparent black, beaded bodices, matching capes, and even velvet. Later, checked fabrics also became quite common.

Length

• In the early 1920's, the Qipao became popular among both Manchu and Han women. Influenced by western designs in the late 20th century, the Qipao became shorter in length and its waistline was redesigned to be more figure- hugging. The dress perfectly captures the elegance and serenity of Oriental beauty. It was a revolution in the Chinese society when women began to show their arms and legs when they wore Qipaos. In the past, they were even forbidden to expose their feet. Old-fashioned people were furious about it and some warlords declared that Qipaos and naked models were two evil things that perverted the society. However, it didn't stop women from pursuing fashion. Movie stars and upper-class ladies helped it reach extreme popularity. It became the Chinese women's daily dress for decades. Women of all ages used to wear it for all occasions.

Material

• In the past, qipao was mainly made of silk. In the 1950s, women in the workforce started to wear more functional cheongsams made of wool, twill, and other materials. Most were tailor fitted and often came with a matching jacket. The dresses were a fusion of Chinese tradition with modern styles.

These are qipaos in different patterns, including bamboo sticks, blossoms and flowers.