Hanbok

The history of Hanbok

The history of Hanbok started from three different colonies (Kogueruh, Baekjae, and Shinla) in ancient Korea. The trace of Hanbok was first founded on the walls of kingdom's graves. It was brought into Korea when one of the princes married a princess of a colony in China. Some of the basic elements of today’s hanbok, namely the shirt - jeogori and pants - baji, were probably worn at a very early date, but it was not until the Three Kingdoms Period (57 BC - AD 668) that the two-piece costume of today began to evolve. Short, tight trousers and tight, waist-length jackets were worn by both men and women during the early part of the period, as evidenced by ancient tomb paintings of Goguryeo tombs. This basic structure remains relatively unchanged to this day. Back in Kogueruh period, clothes were influenced by China and Buddhism. (The picture is Lee Young Ae in the popular drama Dae Jang Geum)

Qipao in popular culture

This is a picture from Wong Kar Wai's movie In the Mood for Love. Maggie Cheong's gorgeous qipaos created a come-back of this traditional Chinese dress.

This is NancyKwan wearing a qipao on the cover of Life magazine in the 60s. In Western popular culture, the qipao became synonymous with the 1960 movie character Suzie Wong and the sexual objectification of women.

This is the poster for the movie Spiderman I. The caucasian American woman wears a qipao in the movie, which sometimes people argue that this represents the idea of orientalism.

The popular Chinese Street Fighter video game character Chun-Li is very well known for her signature blue cheongsam (first seen in Street Fighter II: The World Warrior), worn with white knee-high boots, hair bun covers, and oversized spiked bracelets for a non-traditional style.

The model isn't wearing a qipao, she's wearing a bodypaint which looks so real!

Functions and representation of qipao

Displays the elegance of female body

• Qipao, the classic dress for Chinese women, combines the elaborate elegance of Chinese tradition with unique elements of style. It creates the impression of simple and quiet charm, elegance and neatness. It can display Chinese women's modesty, softness and beauty. Like Chinese women's temperament, Qipaos are elegant and gentle. The beauty of qipao makes it gain its popularity. The high-necked, closed-collar qipao, with a loose chest, fitting waist, and the attractive slits, is one of the most versatile costumes in the world. The modernized version is especially noted for accentuating the figures of women, and as such is highly popular as a dress for high society. As Western fashions changed, the basic cheongsam design changed too, introducing high-necked sleeveless dresses, bell-like sleeves, and the black lace frothing at the hem of a ball gown. By the 1940s, cheongsam came in transparent black, beaded bodices, matching capes, and even velvet.

It embodies a revolutionary act and a quest for beauty

• Qipao is different from the traditional dress which is loose and baggy. The change in the style and tailoring of qipao reflects a change in the mind of the people. Under the influence of western dress style, qipao undergoes a radical change in terms of its length, cutting and style. The Qipao became standard female attire until the 1960s. Following Western fashion, the tailors raised the hem, even to above the knee, so that the "long" was long no longer. In the West, during the sexual revolution of the 1960s the style was deemed something oppressive, like the Victorian bodice. It was a revolution in the Chinese society when women began to show their arms and legs when they wore Qipaos. In the past, they were even forbidden to expose their feet. Old-fashioned people were furious about the change. However, it didn’t stop women from pursuing fashion. Movie stars and upper-class ladies helped it reach extreme popularity. It became the Chinese women’s daily dress for decades. Women of all ages used to wear it for all occasions.

A representation of national identity and the gendered representation of the nation

• Qipao represents the national identity and signifies the idea of gendered representation of the nation. People in the West particularly identify qipao as the national dress of Chinese. They are fascinated by it. In the current force of globalization, we have seen the increasing presence of ethnic dress going across borders, whether through the flow of people or media, especially in the direction from non-Western countries to Western countries. Cheongsam, the Chinese national dress, has revived since the 1990s on both in China and in Western societies. This trend is evidenced in American popular media. In two Hollywood movies, Spider Man I (2002) and 50 First Dates (2004), Caucasian American women wear qipao in the movies. Unlike American movies engaging in Chinese issues or Chinese produced nostalgic and martial arts/gangster movies in which cheongsam naturally appears, the stories of these two movies have nothing to do with Chinese. Some people may argue that this actually helps to reinforce the idea of orientalism---how the East is seen and represented in the eyes of the West.

You can see that this one is much shorter in length, which differs from the traditional one. The length of the old style qipao usually reaches the ankle.

You can see the change in the material used in making a qipao. This is not made of silk. This one is a two piece dress, with a petticoat inside, which is different from the traditional one.

Changes in qipao

Cutting and tailoring

• The first and "traditional" qipao when introduced to the larger Han population were wide, baggy and rather loose. It covered most of the women's body revealing only to head, hands, and the tips of the toe. The loose baggy nature of the clothing also served to demphasize and conceal the figure of the wearer regardless of age. However, with time the qipao were tailored to become more form fitting and revealing. The modern version of the qipao was first developed in Shanghai around 1900. Slender and form fitting with a high cut, it contrasted sharply with the traditional qipao. The modernized version is especially noted for accentuating the figures of women, and as such is highly popular as a dress for high society. As Western fashions changed, the basic cheongsam design changed too, introducing high-necked sleeveless dresses, bell-like sleeves, and the black lace frothing at the hem of a ball gown. By the 1940s, cheongsam came in transparent black, beaded bodices, matching capes, and even velvet. Later, checked fabrics also became quite common.

Length

• In the early 1920's, the Qipao became popular among both Manchu and Han women. Influenced by western designs in the late 20th century, the Qipao became shorter in length and its waistline was redesigned to be more figure- hugging. The dress perfectly captures the elegance and serenity of Oriental beauty. It was a revolution in the Chinese society when women began to show their arms and legs when they wore Qipaos. In the past, they were even forbidden to expose their feet. Old-fashioned people were furious about it and some warlords declared that Qipaos and naked models were two evil things that perverted the society. However, it didn't stop women from pursuing fashion. Movie stars and upper-class ladies helped it reach extreme popularity. It became the Chinese women's daily dress for decades. Women of all ages used to wear it for all occasions.

Material

• In the past, qipao was mainly made of silk. In the 1950s, women in the workforce started to wear more functional cheongsams made of wool, twill, and other materials. Most were tailor fitted and often came with a matching jacket. The dresses were a fusion of Chinese tradition with modern styles.

These are qipaos in different patterns, including bamboo sticks, blossoms and flowers.

Special features of qipao

• Material: The Qipao / Cheongsam is usually made of excellent materials like silk, silk brocade, satin, satin brocade or velour's. Nearly all colors can be used.
• Design:The only medium to display the elegance of a human body is an elegant costume. Whatever costume a woman wears, in addition to magnificence and nobility, she must have a thirst for elegance or beauty. Perhaps that's the reason why Qipao was born. The design of the front of Qipao depicts the maturity of women properly, reminding people of the line of a Chinese poem 'A garden full of the beauty of spring can not be prevented from being enjoyed.'
• High collar: The collar of Qipao / Cheongsam is high and tight fitting, not just for preventing coldness but also for beauty. The collar of Qipao generally takes the shape of a semicircle, its right and left sides being symmetrical, flattering the soft and slender neck of a woman. The collar of Qipao is meticulously made, especially the buttonhole loop on the collar, which serves as the finishing touch. We can't help but admire the designers' artistic originality.
  
• Slits: Cheongsam generally has two big slits at either side of the hem, which are convenient for movement. The slits of Qipao / Cheongsam expose a woman's legs indistinctly when she walks, as if there was a blurred emotional appeal of "enjoying flowers in mist"
  
• Pattern: Different patterns have different meanings and they symbolise something. For example: peony symbolizes richness and prosperity. Lotus is a sacred flower. Chrysanthemum symbolizes longevity. Fish is a symbol for prosperity. Dragon symbolizes "Supreme Power". Phoneix is a symbol of beauty and purity.
  
• Beauty: Like other costumes, the beauty of Qipao comes first. Simplicity is one of its features from the collar, loop, chest, waist and hips to the lower hem, and a Qipao almost varies with a woman's figure. It not only lays stress on the natural beauty of a female figure, but also makes women's legs appear more slender. Mature women in Qipaos can display their graceful refined manner.
  

The origin of qipao

China: qipao/cheongsam

• Known as qipao/cheongsam/mandarin gown/banner dress. The name "cheongsam," meaning simply "long dress," it is known as "qipao", which has a history behind it.
• Its origin comes from the Manchus, and it becomes the traditional dress for Chinese women. When the early Manchu rulers came to China, they organized certain people, mainly Manchus, into "banners" (qi) and called them "banner people" (qiren), which then became loosely the name of all Manchus. The Manchu women wore normally a one-piece dress which, likewise, came to be called "qipao" or "banner dress." Although the 1911 Revolution toppled the rule of the Qing (Manchu) Dynasty, the female dress survived the political change and, with later improvements, has become the traditional dress for Chinese women.
• There is a legend about the origin of qipao. A young fisherwoman lived by the Jingbo Lake. She was not only beautiful, but also clever and skillful. But when fishing, she often felt hindered by her long and loose fitting dress. Then an idea struck her: why not make a more practical dress for work？ She got down to sewing and produced a long multi－looped－button gown with slits, which enabled her to tuck in the front piece of her dress, thus making her job much easier. As a fisherwoman, she never dreamed that a fortune would befall on her.The young emperor who ruled China at that time had a dream one night. In the dream, his dead father told him that a lovely fisherwoman in Qipao by the Jingbo Lake would become his queen. After awakening from his deep sleep, the empero sent his men to look for her. Sure enough, there she was！ So she became the queen, bringing her Cheongsam with her. Manchu women all followed suit and soon the Qipao became popular.There is a legend which says that qipao was invented by a fisherwoman who later became the queen.
  

This is Zhang Ailing, one of my favourite writers in contemporary Chinese Literature. She's wearing a modern form of qipao, which was very popular during the 30s and 40s.